Remove the door from the overhead console that hides the sunroof motor. Remove the single T25 Torx screw that holds the overhead plastic console piece in place, then remove the plastic piece.
Using a T25 Torx tool, remove the three screws that secure the mirror (picture). You will probably have to buy a single, long-shafted Torx T25 tool, as the typical Torx screwdriver tips will be too fat and/or too short to reach the recessed screw heads.
Remove the bulb from the "Fasten Belts" fixture (this bulb cannot be re-installed using this method of radar detector mount). Remove the wire connections from the posts of the Fasten Belts bulb holder, then slip the metal connections out of the plastic posts. Save them for a rainy day.
Unplug the connection for the vanity light in the mirror. Remove the two large slotted screws from the back of the mirror mount, then remove the metal piece that captures the three mounting screws. Be careful to catch the two small metal bars inside.
You will need to install screws that are about an inch longer, such that you can mount the mirror about an inch lower. I used #10 x 2 1/2" sheet metal screws, and force-threaded them into the existing holes. Yes, I do some really tacky things sometimes! Obviously, the preferred screw would be the same type as stock, but 1" longer, but the sheet metal screws work fine for me (just be very careful not to over-tighten them and strip out the mount).
Put the three screws through the metal backing piece. Put the metal bars in place in the mirror mount, then position the backing piece onto the mirror mount and install the two large slotted screws.
I used oversized nuts to space the mirror down; three 1/4" nuts and one 5/16" nut on each of the three screws gave me the clearance I needed (picture). Another picture.
Install the spacer nuts onto the three screws, position the mount and drive the screws home, just snug. You will have to slightly spread the plastic posts of the former Fasten Belts light fixture to make room for the mirror mount.
Using a suitable thin, fine-bladed saw, elongate the opening for the mirror in the plastic overhead console cover piece. The slot will have to be two inches long, and the same width as the existing slot. Picture.
Make the wiring connection for the power supply filter supplied with the detector. Someone said they wired it into the sunroof motor power. That would be extremely convenient if you can stuff everything in there. I found switched power under the dash, so tapped it in there. I then fished the phone-cord type connector wire up through the left rear corner of the dash and up the A-pillar after removing the A-pillar trim (it just pries off). The passage up through the dash was very small. I used a coat hanger and I shined a flashlight up from below and looked for the light leak from the top to see where to fish. I carefully pried the front of the headliner down a bit and stuffed the wire under the front lip, feeding it past the right side of the detector, where the connection is made.
Re-install the plastic cover piece, threading the radar detector phone-type wire out the right front.
Install the detector between the mirror and the roof, using the windshield suction cup mount. To prevent rattles, I put small pieces of closed cell foam tape between the detector and the mirror and on the top front of the detector where it meets the windshield.