Townsend has a good write-up, and it includes instructions on modifying the mount to limit its travel.  I have taken his modification a step further.  Townsend's mod cuts the mount travel from about an inch to about 3/4".  My modification cuts mount travel to about 1/2".  My mount mods.

The limit bracket that runs up and over the front of the mount is secured by a 10mm nut on one side and it looks like something that needs to be removed, but don't do it!  It's a waste of time because the limit bracket is spot welded on the other end.  There's no need to remove that nut.  There's a washer-like thing with a tab on it that contacts the mount to limit travel; make sure you get it on right side up.  The U-bend goes up, not down.  The limit stop plate on the rear mount is flat.

 Weird things that you'll need to make the job easier:

Put the right front corner of the car on a jack stand

 Remove the right front wheel.

Remove the fender inner liner (instructions).  

Using a ratchet and socket, remove the bolt from the center of the mount.  Picture

Remove the 13mm rear bolt for the front mount.  Picture

Remove the 13mm front mount bolt:  Picture We need to jack the engine up, but first we need to do some preparatory stuff.  I think you can jack the engine enough without removing the bolt from the rear mount, but I worry about stressing or breaking the mount, so I recommend that you go ahead and remove the rear mount center bolt.

Carefully jack up the engine (put a piece of wood between the jack & the oil pan)

 Now if the front mount is busted, you can pull the center rubber piece and then the base out

So loosen the subframe bolts on the right side  Picture

Pry the front corner of the subframe down until you can insert the new mount

The rear mount, should you decide to do it, is secured by three bolts with nuts.  While this sounds much worse than the front mount's bolts-into-the-frame, it actually works out nicely.  You can hold the bolt heads above with an open end wrench, then ratchet the nuts off from below.  Picture

Release the subframe and re-attach the sub frame bolts (good & snug; don't wring them off; 40 ft-lbs is the official torque).

Install all mount bolts loosely, then drop the engine bracket down onto the mounts and install the center mount bolts, then tighten the mount bolts/nuts.

 

Torque rod replacement notes